Driving north along the Dalmation Coast there is the attractive little village Ston, a traditional centre of oyster and shellfish cultivation. Nearby, our AutoCamp Prapratno is at the little cove, with same name, on the seashore amongst the pinewood and olive groves. The pebbly beach has crystal clear water.
We grab our bikes, after the rain finally stops, (1 1/2 days latter), and ride up and over the hills to Ston. . . . what ?!!?! . . . are we in China . . . .. “The Great Wall of Ston” is steep and long too! They have an annual run up and along the wall for those interested!?!
The wall was designed to protect the Pelješac peninsula – virtually an island itself – which is joined to the coast by a slim neck of land at Ston, whose magnificent town walls were built to defend the northernmost frontiers of the Dubrovnik Republic. (Read more: http://www.roughguides.com/destinations/europe/croatia/southern-dalmatian-islands/#ixzz4BS5Ubi85 )
At the seafood restaurant high above our camp we look over the cove and see the storm approaching!! It was fun cycling home in rain – that is our camp at the bottom of the photo!!
We enjoyed a few glasses . . . actually bottles of the local Peljesac peninsula wine with fellow motorhomers Peter and Dot, from Nelsons Bay – Australia. The mussel risotto and the cutlefish (black) risotto were delicious . . . and very affordable. Eating seafood in Croatia is much cheaper than in Australia (outside of the main cities and tourist areas). Mark is committed to learn to enjoy seafood in Croatia. (He was committed to enjoying pizza in Italy too – – – and that worked!!)
The following morning, once another storm had passed we board a 45 minute ferry ride to famous Mljet Island. We ride our bikes up through the hills (ugh), lots of them, along the length of the island.
After 27km we rest in quaint Polace for a bite to eat and refreshments. Many yacht charters anchor here to enjoy the restaurants and cafes – plenty of bikes to hire.
Polače has a number of ancient ruins dating from the 1st to the 6th centuries. However, of greatest significance is the Roman palace hence the name “Polace” from 5th century whose walls dominates the village. This is one of the largest buildings in Dalmatia from the Roman period. (Polace is pronounced Polache).
We continue riding under the stone palace walls and onwards to the two beautiful Salt Lakes.
Whilst you are not allowed to FreeCamp in the motorhome in Croatia, the conditions and prices at this time of year are good. Our camps are costing 120 to 140 kuna per night. (About 12 to 14 GB Pound – or 24 to 28 Australian Dollars). We are in shoulder season. Prices rise another 20-30% for July and August and space in the busier places needs to be booked ahead. We make extensive use of our ACSI card, usually gets you the best “going rate” at the Auto Camps and Campgrounds. Many of the Auto Camps are little more than carparks, or a “spot in the garden”, so with the ACSI Card discount we often get a few more facilities for a similar price. The card and accompanying book of parks cost 14.50 GB Pound each year – plus postage delivered to London – thank you Mike 😉
We pass through Bosnia for approx 20km on our way north. Passports are not checked on the way in, but are checked by Croatia on our way back in. Nobody looks inside Bruce to see if there are more people hiding in there!! No one has at any checkpoint!!
Heading north in rain showers we overnight in Omis.